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Friday, May 13, 2011

Château de Lavernette Beaujolais Villages 2009

Beaujolais is changing my life. Actually, correction: natural, organic Beaujolais is changing my life. I will never drinks Georges Duboeuf or Louis Jadot Beaujolais ever again. No more mass produced, commercial candy-dandy nonsense *narrows eyebrows*.

OK, OK, I'm not really that angry at the big boys in the market. After all, it was from drinking those producers, that I got more and more curious about and eventually fell in love with Beaujolais. That said, natural, organic Beaujolais - whether it's Beaujolais Nouveau, Beaujolais Villages or Cru Beaujolais - is its own world. No chemical pesticides used in cultivating the land the vines grow in; harvesting the grapes as late as possible to be certain optimal ripeness has been reached and using only the best grapes, which means low yields of really quality loot; and no use of chapitalization or carbonic maceration (which strips the wine of its tannins (and Beaujolais is not wildly tannic to begin with) ) during fermentation.


The result of such old world wine making for this yummy Château de Lavernette Beaujolais Villages is a wine of tremendous depth, Burgundian through and through in its spirit. On the nose is a flaky baked cheery pie that leads to a dry leaf earthiness - no bubble gum or bananas here (aromas and tastes that, when throwing themselves at you and being the center of the wine, are dead ringers carbonic maceration. As aspects of a wine that harmonize with others, however, that's just the earth, grapes and weather that year talking). On the palate, the baked cherry pie carries all the way through with a lovely roundness to them, while the earthiness on the nose is backed on the palate by rather strong tannins that could easily allow this puppy to take a few years of age on it.

With Beaujolais such as this, made such as this, you're truly tasting a very specific place on the Earth. Put this next to the Château de Pizay tasted earlier, and it becomes clear. Pizay - despite being a certified ECOCERT winery - clearly did not let nature do the talking with their Beaujolais. It's a fruit bomb in comparison to this Lavernette or to the Chatelard Fleurie tasted at the beginning of this blog. It's fun and easy  and that's fine - but this Lavernette begs you to stop and really smell it and think about what you're smelling, and then put the wine to your lips and taste, and think and then swirl and smell some more, and think further and try to imagine where what you're smelling and tasting came from ; what the place that gave birth to a wine like this, is like in terms of particulars to be capable of such greatness. 

$18.99 is what I paid for this and worth every penny. You might balk and say, "$20 for Beaujolais no way!" But natural Beaujolais is not party wine, as I hope I have made clear =)

P.S. Anke Boissieu was a total sweet heart when I wrote to tell her how elated I was with the wine, and welcomed me to come visit the winery in September when I go to Lyon. =)

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